Campania Region Guide by Julie Friend

This Article first appeared in the May 2005 edition of 'The Italian' magazine.

Return to Sorrento. So the song goes. And why wouldn't you? It is after all just one of the gems nestled in the nooks and crannies of the Costa Amalfitana , the most visited part of Campania. But leave aside the trails of tourists and ceramic shops and you will discover that this region has so much more to offer.          

Campania - so named by the Romans - campus, 'the plain'. A flat and fertile land propped up by the Appenines on one side and sweeping down to the Tyrhhenian sea on the other. It is the second largest populated area within Italy and nearly 50 per cent of that population crams itself in and around its hectic Capital, Naples.   

Some say that the happy go lucky, live for today attitude that the Neapolitans seem to convey is because of the ominous position of this city, in the shadows of the most active volcano in mainland Europe, Vesuvius. The mountain has erupted more than 50 times since the Romans and disturbing proof of the damage it can do can be seen at the ever popular sites of Pompeii and Herculaneum. More recently in the 1980's the area experienced a massive earthquake, the suburb of Pozzuoli being worst hit and resulting in numerous deaths and thousands left homeless.

But for whatever reason, the Neapolitans live their lives, with gusto, bravado and lots of noise.

Food lovers should definitely brave the madness of the city to peruse the vibrant market. A multitude of colours, smells, textures - the most magnificent display of all that the region produces both from the land and sea. It is a riot that you'll either love or hate but you will never forget the atmosphere, the cat calling of the sellers, the laughter as they tease each other about whose produce is best and the light hearted banter that the women shoppers give as they barter for a better deal.

Whatever you do - do not miss out on a pizza whilst in Naples. This is apparently where it all began - over 200 years ago at the Antica Pizzeria Brandi, which still feeds hungry Neapolitans today. You will, of course, never want to eat pizza at home again after tasting how it's really done but don't let that put you off.   And try a bianco for a change. No tomato sauce, but wafer thin potato, fresh rosemary and a sprinkling of pecorino . Buonissimo .

Agriculture is big in Campania. As you work your way down the coast you will often experience a series of microclimates as you emerge from each peninsula and bay.   It could be bucketing down in Naples and basking in sunshine in Salerno just a few miles away. Fruit, vegetables and vines thrive in this situation and account for a large proportion of the regions income. Melons, apricots, grapes and, of course, the citrus fruits so famed along the Amalfi coast, can be found in abundance and the sweet, ruby red, San Marzano tomato will make a sauce like no other you have tasted. Between market days, you will regularly find the growers sitting by the roadside with their glut of goodies hoping you might spend a few Euros on a case of the sweetest melons or the original 'sun blushed' tomatoes.

If you get down to Paestum you must pop in and meet Giovanni Napoli (yes, really). A canny octogenarian, who has decided to spend his retirement years nurturing organic lemons, now selling all over Italy. As Giovanni wanders off to pick his booty he leaves you under the vine-covered terrace sipping his homemade Limoncella. By the time the wise one returns you have, of course, soaked up both the atmosphere and the alcohol and the two Euros worth of lemons you were about to buy turns into twenty as you must now take away a bottle or two of yellow nectar. Sadly, back on the roof terrace in Bayswater, it will never taste the same.

Vines do well here and the grapes, which flourish, make for a particularly distinctive addition to any cellar.   Aglianico has sometimes been referred to as "the Barolo of the south" due to its ability to age and its robustness. Amongst some of Italy's most distinguished whites are the Fiano di Avellino and Greco di Tufo, from the hills east of Naples.

Head off to Agropoli and visit the Vini Marino vineyard to get a real taste of what Campania can offer in a bottle. Whether there are just two of you who are keen wine buffs or a whole coach load, you will be greeted by charming Assunta, one of the daughters-in-law, who happily guides you through the vines and the wine making process and then indulges you in the tasting with seemingly no pressure to buy - but you are sure to, as the wines are truly delicious. Their oil is also worth a taste.   Much more mellow than that found in Tuscany but wonderful for cooking, particularly with fish.   

Driving along the SS18 from Battipaglia down to Agropoli and you will notice the signs of another major food product from the region. Casefeico - or cheese factory notices, protrude like 'For Sale' signs all along the roadside, each claiming to be the original or best. Unfortunately the signs are often accompanied by what can only be described as a rich farm odour - but all is forgiven when you spot the handsome creatures. Dark glossy hair, big brown eyes, often lounging by their own pools. Yes, it's the water buffalo. Nobody seems to know how or why these animals got to Campania but every gourmet like me is just so happy that they did.

These beauties produce the sweetest milk, significantly more digestible than that from the cow, and from which some clever artisan discovered that by gently heating you could make the softest, sensual cheese of all - mozzarella.   Once you have tasted mozzarella from Campania made a matter of hours before it arrived on your plate, you will despise the plastic pillows we accept as the real thing.   Some say that the older generation mozzarella makers will only eat at lunch the cheese produced from the morning milking and at dinner, that from the afternoon supply - now that's fresh.  

Casefeico Vannulo is in fact the only organic producer in the region. In 1998, owner Antonio Palmieri decided to change their systems to ensure that no chemicals were used on their 222 acres of land. The entire farm is used to grow the forage needed to feed the 400 animals present and should they get ill, they will receive only homeopathic remedies.   No wonder they look happy. This set up really is a labour of love. The two farm hands looking after the buffalo have named each one and miraculously, trained them to respond to their calls. The joke on the farm is that the names are all traits of ex-girlfriends so you have 'Always Late' followed up the path by 'Lovely Legs'. But this attitude and attention to detail emanates throughout the whole dairy with its beautifully manicured grounds, spotlessly clean production areas and an ultra modern, glass walled museum showing the visitor how it used to be done.

The Palmieri family and staff want to maintain a completely sustainable production and are trying to encourage locals that the Buffalo meat is good to eat. This is taking time and education. This summer will see the completion of the tannery so that nothing is wasted and the hides are made into classy bi-products.

A tour of the farm costs only a few euros and is conducted ably by marketing, sales and all rounder, Francesco (another truly handsome beast). Splash out a little more and you will be treated to a delicious lunch in a pretty, whitewashed dining room, tasting not only the mozzarella but ricotta salata , yoghurts and budini.  

Once you have indulged in all of these goodies some gentle exercise will be needed to work off the calories.   Once past Salerno the beaches become white and sandy again and the sea, both clean and safe, is perfect for an afternoon dip. The beach at Paestum is a glorious stretch, forming a gentle curve round the bay to Agropoli. Even at the height of the season this area has remained relatively untouched by tourists and if you visit after August you will think they have cleared the beach especially for you.

Down at Paestum begins the Cilento National Park. The Cilento was the boundary between the Greek colonies, known as the Magna Graecia, and the indigenous Etruscan and Lucanian people.   In 1752, when the King of Naples ordered a new road to be built, the remains of one of these major cities were found at Paestum and are the best preserved Greek temples in the world.   The two larger temples, Ceres and Poseidon (or Neptune) with their fat, Doric columns were practically intact and remain an awe-inspiring spectacle. Visit both the site and the museum to get a taste of life down here over 2000 years ago. Another city at Velia is just as beautiful.

In the evening the Paestum ruins are floodlit and locals enjoy their passagiata alongside the site where there are now a few restaurants and Gelaterie . Pop into Il Calice, a tiny bar where the proprietor helps you to select some local wines to taste and accompanies them with cheeses and meats from the region.

Continuing south of Paestum along the Gulf of Salerno you come to Santa Maria di Castellabate, a pretty seaside town, which is one of the very few places in the Cilento, featured in some of the major tour operators brochures. But don't be put off by that, as it will never be the busy Amalfi coast and with its wide, sandy beaches, family restaurants and pedestrianised shopping area, makes for a wonderful holiday venue.   If you want to pamper yourselves, stay at the 17 th Century Palazzo Belmonte, once a hunting lodge for the King of Spain. An idyllic hotel presided over by Prince Angelo Belmonte himself, with pretty rooms; palm fringed grounds and spectacular sea views.

Peering down over Santa Maria is old Castellabate. A sleepy, town with what seems like a million and one steps up and down through geranium filled alleys and lanes. Rest in the square and watch the old boys sitting outside the bar, playing cards all day and seemingly never buying a drink.

There are worse ways of spending a Saturday than by purchasing a basket of goodies at the Saturday market in Santa Maria and picnicking at Punta Licosa, an old hunting reserve on the edge of the Cilento park, full of scented pine trees and jutting its pebbly beach out into the sea. Legend has it that this is where the Sirens sang to Odysseus, and you can see why.

As the major airport serving the region is Naples, you will have to wend your way back up to fly home. A diversion east over the mountains to the Certosa di Padula, a baroque monastery with formal gardens, will not disappoint. The monastery was founded in 1306 by Tommaso San Severino and is dedicated to St.Lawrence. Saint was burnt alive.

And so we arrive back up where we began. La Costa Amalfitana with its pretty towns of Sorrento, Positano, Ravello and Amalfi itself. Let us not forget the islands of Capri and Ischia which some say have been ruined by the tourists but others will hold in the hearts always. Yes, in August it's crazy down here, with hoards of tourists and a few English breakfasts popping up here and there - but it is still quite beautiful.

An Italian friend of mine once said' I think Sorrento becomes like your Blackpool in the summer'. God bless him.